Kevin Heinrich

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  • Courses & Trips
    • Big Wall Course
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Trip Report

Journey to the Center of the Earth: Big Wall First Ascent

I tiptoe away from the anchor, onto a slab, toward a blank corner and the steepest bit of rock we had yet encountered. I urge

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April 19, 2020 15 Comments
Trip Report

Big Wall Solo, South Face of Washington Column (V, 5.8, C1)

I arrived in Yosemite in October 2018 with one thing on my mind; soloing a big wall. In fact, this monkey had been on my

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January 31, 2019 2 Comments
Trip Report

How NOT to Climb the Casual Route, Longs Peak (800ft, IV, 5.10a)

The Casual Route on the Diamond of Longs Peak is anything but. It’s the easiest route on the face but even with perfect conditions you’ll still hike

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September 10, 2018 4 Comments
Tech Talk

The Best Climbing Anchor | A Look at Anchor Research

**Parts of this post are missing/non-functional due to my stupidity, sorry!** This led me to think; why don’t I find the smartest, most experienced climber

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July 23, 2018 No Comments
Gear Review

Belay Gloves: Rack ’em or Sack ’em?

Belay gloves protect your hands from fast moving ropes, hot belay devices, aluminum oxide flakes, dirt, cactus spines, and spiky bushwhacks that can all take

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March 20, 2018 No Comments
Rock Climbing

VIDEO: Climbing at Looking Glass Rock, North Carolina

In mid-November, on my first real climbing stop of my road trip I spent a week at Looking Glass Rock in North Carolina with a

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January 8, 2018 No Comments
Banter

Should We Grade Our Partners?

You’re in a parking lot waiting to meet up with a new partner who you found online. You’re ready for the day of climbing and

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December 15, 2017 1 Comment
Rock Climbing

10 Tips for Beginning Hangboarders

These tips are for people who are new to hangboarding, NOT new to climbing. If you’re new to climbing you are better off using your

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April 7, 2017 2 Comments
Banter

Authentic Distressed Climber Jacket – $650

I’ve had amazing adventures in this jacket so you don’t have to! Thousands of dollars and multiple years have been invested in climbing with this

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March 25, 2017 No Comments
Trip Report

Trip Report: Alpamayo (19,511ft), Cordillera Blanca, Peru

[This trip took place in July, 2015. This post took me a really long time to write, I hope it entertains. Sorry its sooo long]

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January 19, 2016 2 Comments
Banter

Post Expedition Gluttony

When we venture outside our comfort zones; whether into the wilderness, to a foreign country, or onto a stage we gain a lot of appreciation

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August 2, 2015 5 Comments
Banter

Cool Story Bro… but you effed up.

Humans tell stories. We always have and we always will. While the content of these oral traditions has shifted; from water turned to wine to

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July 11, 2015 No Comments
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Does a pre rig rappel close the system? With a bit Does a pre rig rappel close the system? With a bit of rope weight, yes. But the top person should always have a brake hand (or prusik) on regardless. (On this slab, at the beginning of the rappel there was not enough rope weight.)
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Here Matt is rappelling on a single strand under my pre-rig but this is effectively the same as if he accidentally rappeled off the end of ONE strand. Therefore, when prerigging we DO NOT need to have knots in both ends (but 100% need one knot). This is a huge advantage as the rope ends often falls beautifully down the cliff and we are too lazy to pull it up and tie a knot. This has killed many climbers.
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If you can't remember this hack, ALWAYS TIE KNOTS IN BOTH ENDS OF YOUR RAPPELL. 
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Please, please, please check out the rappelling webinar on our YouTube for lots more context!!! (Link to out channel in bio). Spread it wide and let's save lives!
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#climbing #techtip #rockclimbing #rappelling @alpenglowsports
Link in bio to register! . FREE webinar tomorrow n Link in bio to register!
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FREE webinar tomorrow night (9/4) @ 7pm PDT. Learn to Avoid and Solve Common Rappelling Epics w/ an AMGA Certified Rock Guide.
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Q&A on any climbing topic after.
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Getting a lot of love and positive feedback on the webinars lately, THANK YOU! They are a lot of work :)
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Previous webinars on YouTube, link in bio.
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Upcoming Courses
Sat 9/6 Intro to Multipitch @ Emmigrant Wall
Sun 9/7 Intro to Rescue @ Old Camp Bluff
Three Piece Quad is cute but DUMB. 🥺 . Everythi Three Piece Quad is cute but DUMB. 🥺
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Everything you need to know about building anchors: You absolutely need bomber gear in bomber rock. You should also consider redundancy in the gear, rock, and anchor material. Equalization aint it.
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Tag an #instaguide that's been hawking a 3 piece quad 🤦‍♂️
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Wish stuff like this had more context? Me too! Link in bio to find the entire 2hr webinar on YouTube!!
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#rockclimbing #climbing #climbinganchors #techtiptuesday #anchoroftheday @alpinesavvy
A quick and dirty way to go from descent to ascent A quick and dirty way to go from descent to ascent mode while using an ATC with guide mode aka a plaquette.

This is useful if you rap past an anchor station, but isn't a great option for long distances of ascending. 

Using a thinner rope also makes this easier compared to stiffer, thicker ropes.
Self rescue. Spend a day learning it... because i Self rescue.

Spend a day learning it... because it's not something that you're going be stoked to try figure out on the fly if shit hits the fan.

I know it's not as fun as going climbing, but it is something that you may one day be stoked to have taken the time to learn. 

Climbing is dangerous and it's worth knowing how to help your buddy if they take a bad fall or if a rock falls nails them from above. 

Leader falls make up the majority of all accidents in North American mountaineering, usually taking place on rock, and rock fall isn't too far behind that. 

Come train with us and learn how to be the partner you want above or below you.
Another variation to building anchors on trees at Another variation to building anchors on trees at the top of multi pitches.

This is a great way to utilize a tree at the top of a multipitch and still maintain security while getting to the edge to finish your master point.
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.#rockclimbing  #climbing #mountains #bigwall #aidclimbing #aid #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #bigwallclimbing #multipitch #climbingismypassion #climbingworldwide #climbingrocks #climber #bouldering_pictures_of_instagram #climbinglife #tradclimbing #bouldering #climbon #sportclimbing #iloveclimbing
Sweet little strategy to be a little safer and arg Sweet little strategy to be a little safer and arguably more efficient on short multis!

Instead of top belaying your climber up the small stance and then having to rig a rappel, you can simply thread through the anchors and like a single pitch sport route to TR the top pitch. 

This is a nice way to skip a rappel and not clutter up small stances on shorter multi pitch climbs. This strategy isn't always the best method if you're dealing with busy routes with other parties. But it is a nice trick in order to do more climbing in the day and do less raps!
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#rockclimbing  #climbing #mountains #bigwall #aidclimbing #aid #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #bigwallclimbing #multipitch #climbingismypassion #climbingworldwide #climbingrocks #climber #bouldering_pictures_of_instagram #climbinglife #tradclimbing #bouldering #climbon #sportclimbing #iloveclimbing
A little candid whipper from the Trad Beyond the B A little candid whipper from the Trad Beyond the Basics course at Donner Summit Saturday!

Louie did a TR sesh on Peter Principle (5.11a) to work the gear and moves before pulling the rope and going for the lead. 

Honestly, these are the moments for us as instructors that are equally rewarding and terrifying at the same time. When you let folks lead, you're handing over the keys to the Porsche and saying "Okay.. you can drive.. Just don't crash it." There's very little risk management that I can do from the belay seat besides give soft catches and encouragement once they've set off. 

At the same time, this type of trust from student to instructor and vice-versa is crucial for building the necessary empowerment to get better at climbing. You don't progress from 5.8 & 5.9 to 5.11 or 5.12 without falling. And at the same time, you don't rush through that progression unsafely and take unnecessary risk. You dial in your gear, you place more often and you pick steep, clean terrain with high cruxes so you can build up to the falls and routes in a safe manner. You also make calculated decisions to manage the risk of leading harder terrain through mentorship and experience.

It was awesome to watch Louie build up the courage to push the grade, place the gear and take the falls. This is the pinnacle of instructing for me

It's a special thing to watch folks push themselves on the same routes and at the same cliff that I once used to push myself the same way. #snowshed
Just wrapped up 7 days with Mr. Ethan on the Easts Just wrapped up 7 days with Mr. Ethan on the Eastside of the Sierra this past week...

Ethan and I started climbing together about 8 years ago at @marin_greenplay_camp. He was about 8 years old then, and I got to watch him grow up through camp.

Ethan is 16 now, drives himself to the crag, and has set his future goals high for himself as an aspiring climber. This trip was a really special one watching him lead me up multi-pitch trad routes, whip on hard sport climbs, and take the reigns of the sharp end! Ethan redpointed his first outdoor 5.11 sport pitch this trip (not without some exciting whippers of course), onsighted his first 5.10 trad lead, and followed me up the regular route of third pillar seemingly without effort. 

It's been such a treat to see him excel through coaching and mentorship and get to be apart of his journey in the mountains! 
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#rockclimbing  #climbing #mountains #bigwall #aidclimbing #aid #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #bigwallclimbing #multipitch #climbingismypassion #climbingworldwide #climbingrocks #climber #bouldering_pictures_of_instagram #climbinglife #tradclimbing #bouldering #climbon #sportclimbing #iloveclimbing
Sup nerds! Quick updates: 🌎 New Terrain: Beaut Sup nerds! Quick updates:
🌎 New Terrain:
 Beautiful High Sierra Alpine!!
🐻 Bear Creek Spire
👍 Mt. Goode
🐦 Cardinal Pinnacle
🥉 Third Pillar of Dana
Awesome 7000ft teaching zones!!
🧳 Emigrant Wall (Intro to Multipitch July 20)
⛺ Old Camp Bluff (Intro to Trad July 19)
These are out in the Carson Pass area
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💻 I forgot to mention, epic anchors webinar this Thursday 7pm. Must sign up in advance at the link in bio. I'm teaching what BIG EQUALIZATION doesn't want you to hear. Free your mind, free your proj.
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Much love! 💕
What does a week of private sport clinics look lik What does a week of private sport clinics look like?

Like this 👆👆👆
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#rockclimbing  #climbing #mountains #bigwall #aidclimbing #aid #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #bigwallclimbing #multipitch #climbingismypassion #climbingworldwide #climbingrocks #climber #bouldering_pictures_of_instagram #climbinglife #tradclimbing #bouldering #climbon #sportclimbing #iloveclimbing
This weekends courses! One spot left for trad, two This weekends courses! One spot left for trad, two for multi. Come get learnt with VP!! 🧠 
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Link in bio to signup on the website 🤘
#getlearnt
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